Technical Q&A

With the rapid development of architectural landscape lighting projects in recent years, domestic first- and second-tier cities based on large rivers have basically carried out landscape lighting projects. The large-volume and wide-area application fully equips the building facade. Although the night view is beautiful, the daytime view is not satisfactory. The ubiquitous wire troughs, branch circuit boxes, switching power supplies, signal controllers, and signal amplifiers detract from the aesthetics of the building. The construction is complicated and requires a periodic wiring check when the lights are on. The key is that high-altitude workers do not know professional skills, and various high-voltage and low-voltage cables and signal lines are complicated. Later repair and maintenance will be more inconvenient. Even later transformation and improvement are difficult. In response to these problems, a new topic has been brought to our architectural landscape lighting design ideas, namely the comprehensive integrated wiring scheme. It is to integrate the power supply and control signals into an electrical cabinet, and place the electrical cabinet in the equipment room, parapet, and refuge floor (the floor height of high-rise buildings is greater than 70 meters...

Answer: The main reason is that the power adapter is not driven by constant current, the voltage is unstable, and the light strip does not match the power of the power supply. The solution is to replace the constant current waterproof power supply, ensure that the power supply power is 1.2 times the total power of the light strip, and check whether the line voltage meets the standard.

Answer: The core is SMD LED lamp beads (common 2835/5050 models), which are packaged with flexible PCB boards. The advantages are that they can be bent at will, smaller in size, and strong in shock resistance. There is no problem of fragile glass and gas leakage of traditional lamps.

Answer: ① Physical protection: Put a flame-retardant corrugated tube on the outside of the light strip to prevent soil extrusion and stones from scratching the light strip body; ② Waterproof upgrade: The light strip joints and power supply connections are double sealed with waterproof glue + heat shrink tubing. The power supply needs to be placed in an outdoor waterproof box to avoid water intrusion; ③ Fixing method: Use special clamps/tie to fix the light strip to prevent the light strip from being pulled and broken due to soil settlement, and reserve a small amount of redundant length.

Answer: The mainstream ones are 12V/24V low voltage and 220V high voltage; 12V/24V low voltage has high safety and is suitable for indoor home decoration, children's rooms, cabinet atmosphere and other close-range installation scenarios, and requires a special transformer; 220V high voltage does not require a transformer and is easier to wire, and is suitable for outdoor long-distance laying, building outline lighting and other scenarios.

Answer: Mainly divided into 3 categories of reasons, troubleshooting is from "simple to complex": ① Poor contact: Check whether the light strip joints, solder joints, and power wiring are loose, and re-tighten/solder them; ② Insufficient power supply: If the total light strip power exceeds 80% of the rated power of the power supply, it will cause insufficient load. Replace the power supply with a higher power matching; ③ The light strip body is broken: the flexible circuit board of the neon light strip is broken, and the faulty section of the light strip needs to be replaced.

Answer: The last two digits of IP represent the dust-proof level and waterproof level respectively. Neon light strips commonly use IP65/IP67/IP68; IP65: anti-dust + anti-spray water, suitable for indoor and outdoor dry/light rain scenes (such as balconies) , store sign); IP67: dustproof + short-term water immersion (30 minutes within 1 meter), suitable for terraces and flower beds next to water features; IP68: dustproof + long-term immersion underwater, suitable for swimming pools, waterscapes, and wet areas of underground garages.

Answer: It can be dimmed, and low-voltage/high-voltage light strip accessories must be matched separately and cannot be mixed; ① 12V/24V low voltage: equipped with a dedicated low-voltage dimming power supply or PWM/0-10V dimming controller, directly connected in series between the power supply and the light strip; ② 220V high voltage: a special dimmer for high-voltage neon light strips is required to prevent ordinary dimmers from burning the light strip; and the power of all dimming accessories requires the total power of the light strip.

Answer: Unlimited splicing is not possible. The splicing length is limited by the power supply and the wire diameter of the light strip; core notes: ① Power matching: 80% of the rated power of the total power supply after splicing (leaving for redundancy); ② Length limit: A single splicing of 220V high-voltage neon light strips does not exceed the manufacturer's regulations (within 50 meters). Excessive length will cause the terminal voltage to attenuate and the brightness to dim; ③ Waterproofing: Outdoor joints need to be sealed with waterproof joints/glued heat shrink tubes to avoid water ingress and short circuits.

Answer: The neon light strip is a low-power flexible light source. It only feels warm when used normally. If it is hot, it is abnormal. Reasons and solutions: ① The voltage/power of the power supply does not match the light strip (such as a 24V power supply connected to a 12V light strip). Immediately cut off the power and replace the matching power supply; ② The light strip is short-circuited: The internal circuit of the light strip is adhered. Check the short circuit point and repair it. If it cannot be repaired, replace the light strip; ③ Poor heat dissipation in the installation environment: The light strips are tightly wrapped in an airtight insulation layer/sealed box. Reinstall and reserve ventilation space to avoid close coverage.